After looking at the map last night we decided to visit Trogir today. It’s not far from Split and the scenery along the road out is pretty mind numbing unless concrete plants are your thing.
Trogir is set along a narrow island, sort of coffin shaped, between the Croatian mainland and the island of Ciovo. The island is so small that you could easily not realise that Trogir is completely surrounded by water as you pass over the bridge to the island.
Arriving in Trogir we were greeted by an elaborate city gate as we turned off the bridge. We followed the road around the edge of the town until we found a nice spot to start. On the wall near the bike a plaque proudly declared that Trogir was included on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1997. The guide books state that Trogir is “the best-preserved Romanesque-Gothic complex not only in the Adriatic, but in all of Central Europe”.
Well that’s a big call, so we decided to take a walk around and see what all the fuss was about.
We parked the bike on the footpath and took a walk along the wharf past a heap of beautifully maintained wooden cruise boats. Along the water front, cafe’s and restaurants were chockas with people soaking up the sun. One things about Croatia as soon as the sun comes out so do the people.
At end the wharf Kamerlengo Fortress (Gradina Kamerlengo) silently stands guard. It was built, in the mid-15th century, by the Republic of Venice when Trogir was a part of the empire. The fortress was built as an expansion of the Veriga Tower which dated from the 14th century. These days it’s used for summer concerts which would be an awesome setting.
Guarding the opposite corner of the island stands St Marks Tower. It was started in 1470 and finished late in the 15th century. It was connected by the town wall to the castle. Most of the old town wall has since been demolished.
It was fabulous walking through the narrow cobbled streets of Trogir, discovering buildings from different periods displaying Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture.
At the main square we visited the Cathedral of St. Lawrence ( Katedrala Sv. Lovre). The archway surrounding the door really is amazing with scenes of the bible across the top and Adam and Eve on either side standing above lions. There’s so much detail in the arch which seems quite unique.
Around Trogir are lots of churches, palaces and small squares. We found a nice square to stop for a coffee and enjoy the view of the medieval buildings.
After lunch on the waterfront, we headed onto the Island of Čiovo. The island is a lot bigger than expected with a few ship repair facilities and the main population around Okrug Gornji’s beaches. We rode along the northern edge of the island winding our way to Okrug Donji, passing through lots of forested areas.
The island of Čiovo is quite well forested, with lots of pine forests which extend down to the water, framing nice little bays.
After exploring Žedno we headed to Mastrinka and along the coast to Slatine. At this time of year the towns are pretty sleepy, but the island has a nice balance of suburbia and nature.
We headed back to Okrug Gornji where cafes line the beach, hoping to see a beautiful sunset over the bay, however it was not to be.
With the sunset over we headed back to Split.